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Reply To: tack sharp work flow question

wiselee — Mon, 17 Aug 2020 19:59:13 +0000

Reply To: error in tack sharp course regarding depth of field and hyperfocal distance

Hudson Henry — Mon, 29 Jul 2019 22:04:30 +0000

I sure hope not. 🙂

Reply To: Cannot download course videos or assets.

Mon, 22 Jul 2019 22:14:32 +0000

Hey Michael,
Seems to be working fine for me, perhaps the file server we use was temporarily down. Here are direct links to the download:
https://ononesoft.cachefly.net/content/plus/2019/ON1-Plus-Course-Tack-Sharp.zip
https://ononesoft.cachefly.net/content/plus/2019/ON1-Plus-Tack-Sharp-FollowAlongFiles.zip

Cannot download course videos or assets.

Michael Jacobs — Mon, 22 Jul 2019 18:07:08 +0000

I have tried to download the course videos and assets for Tack Sharp, but cannot do so. Have tried with different browsers (Safari and Chrome), but both report “Can’t connect to the server”. Have not experienced this problem before when downloading On1 courses.

Reply To: error in tack sharp course regarding depth of field and hyperfocal distance

Alan Brunelle — Mon, 22 Jul 2019 14:48:29 +0000

The Fujifilm X-T2/3 also have the feature of being able to show you what /it/ thinks is in focus – it will (basically) put a colored outline (you get to choose0 around the parts of the image it thinks is sharp (contrast reaches a certain level I suppose). It’s a very good way of getting a quick idea of what would be in focus.

Reply To: error in tack sharp course regarding depth of field and hyperfocal distance

Mark Allen — Fri, 19 Jul 2019 22:45:32 +0000

On my ancient Fuji XT1, when in manual focus mode, you get a blue line in the LCD that clearly indicates the hyperfocal range. It is a great way to teach this subject to someone new to photography or new to the approach. As you change the f-stop you can see the range expand or reduce. The mistake that people often make is to take it all the way to the right, to infinity The key aspect is considering the furthest away element you want to be in focus and that are sharp to the naked eye. If the mountains in the distance are blurry with atmospheric haze on the day, including them in your hyperfocal will not help a bit.

Reply To: error in tack sharp course regarding depth of field and hyperfocal distance

Lou — Fri, 19 Jul 2019 00:20:40 +0000

Hudson,
I agree. With digital photography out of its infancy and programs like ON1 for post processing, there is so much opportunity to merge the technical and creative aspects to make great looking photos. Of course that does require that the camera be pointed at the right place at the right time. That is still the most challenging part of the process.
Even the high end phone cameras have evolved to an amazing degree. I was reading that those cameras will take 7 pictures (very quickly) when the shutter is pressed and use them to not only provide great HDR capability but blend them additively to take clear, bright photos in low light. That tech has not reached standalone cameras yet (at least I haven’t read about that). But when (if) it does, even more of the features only currently found in post processing software, will be part of the camera.
However I don’t envision a replacement for pointing the camera at the right place at the right time. At least not until robots start doing photography!

Reply To: tack sharp work flow question

Don L — Thu, 18 Jul 2019 14:35:12 +0000

Thanks Adam and Hudson

Reply To: tack sharp work flow question

Hudson Henry — Thu, 18 Jul 2019 06:13:22 +0000

I’m not far from Adam here, but I do tend to do a bit of input sharpening and noise reduction in Develop globally if an image is destined for large printing. If not, I’d not even worry about it. That global work would involve reducing global noise and adding a touch of sharpening to get the best result without blurring fine detail or creating a hint of a halo or negatively affecting out of focus details (I always do it at 100%). I don’t tend to do contrast adjustments with the contrast slider, clarity or structure globally in Develop. I’d rather use the power of masking in Effects with Dynamic Contrast or the Tone Enhancer to target areas for more or less work as Adam suggests.
I think of it this way for images you know you want to print at a larger size (bigger than 8×10):
1) Very light input sharpening and noise reduction to get the base image set in Develop
2) Finish sharpening and noise reduction with masking to target specific parts of the image in Effects and/or Local Adjustments
3) Output sharpening in Resize for the chose print medium at final output size.
For nonprints or small prints:
Just do finish sharpening in Effects and Local Adjustments to taste and don’t worry about input or output sharpening. No one (including you) will notice a difference. 🙂

Reply To: Tack sharp/ReSize question

Hudson Henry — Thu, 18 Jul 2019 06:04:51 +0000

Hey Dan I saw this on the announcement post and responded there. Short answer is that I have trusted Resize since it was called Genuine Fractals. It was the first ON1 Product I used and was renowned as the best plugin available for Photoshop users to uprez images with professional quality results. In the intervening years, Photoshop has gotten much better, but I don’t think you can beat Resize for demanding print work.